
Benjamin Wood swings his bulky frame over the saddle, straps on his helmet, and settles onto a vintage motorcycle with sidecar. The American architect kicks the engine into life with a single thrust and pulls into the rush-hour traffic coursing through Shanghai’s trendy Xintiandi district. He soon steers down a narrow street and enters another world. While Xintiandi is all luxury shops and outdoor caf√©s, in surrounding neighborhoods the sidewalks are full of people playing mah-jongg in their pajamas, washing dishes at outdoor taps, or popping dumplings into bubbling oil. Life goes on much as it has for the past half-century. [Full Text]



